As we gently "melt out" from the snow and ice of the past few days, a number of readers e-mailed me to describe problems they'd encountered, and to ask about aspects of emergency preparation in such weather. Of particular importance to them was solutions that will work in extreme cold, when the power's out for an indeterminate period.
Let's start with light. The simplest, easiest and cheapest way to light your home for a few hours, or days, or even weeks, are the pull-up camping lanterns available under various brand names (but probably all made in the same Chinese factory). This is the cheapest 4-pack on Amazon at the time of writing:
They run on 3 AA batteries, which give several hours' bright light. They're very lightweight, too, and one can use the handle to hang them from any convenient hook or branch, or stand them on a firm surface. To use them, just pull the top up (or partway up if you want less light). I've used them for years. Some may not work very long, because they're Chinesium, and quality is an afterthought for many such products; but at the price, it's hard to complain. I keep half a dozen handy for emergency use. You should also keep a few flashlights on hand to carry around as needed. Candles, tea-lights, etc. are useful if you have a safe place to burn them, but they do add to the fire danger, and you leave them unattended at your own risk.
What about generators? Very useful, but also very noisy, and thirsty for fuel if power remains out for several days. They also have to run outdoors, for safety reasons (carbon monoxide from their exhaust will kill you deader than dead if you run them indoors). I have a smallish, lower-cost model, which I'll use mostly to charge up my battery power banks if and when necessary. It doesn't produce enough power to run all our electrical appliances. (If you can afford it, you can by all means consider a whole-house generator and a dedicated fuel tank to run it for a week or more, but they're usually very expensive.)
Another problem with generators is theft. They're in high demand during weather emergencies. There are those who travel around in such conditions, listening for the sound of generators or evidence of their presence such as lights at night, and then steal them from wherever you've put them. It happened to a friend of mine not far from here a couple of years ago, not 48 hours after he bought the unit. The thieves waited until the small hours of the morning, when the generator wasn't in use, then cut the chain he'd used to fasten it to a pillar and carried it off. He was not a happy camper, to put it mildly!
If you rely on a fuelled generator, make sure you have one powerful enough to run all the appliances you want to use: then calculate its fuel consumption under load (not just idling). A lot of manufacturers won't give you that information in their sales brochure, so you might have to dig around to find it, or establish it by trial and error. Once you know what it is, store enough gasoline or propane to run the generator for however long you might need it. That adds up very quickly, by the way: for a large generator, you may need up to 10-15 gallons per day. Smaller ones are rather more economical. (Don't forget oil: if you have a new generator, you'll normally be expected to change its lubricant after 20-30 hours of operation, and at regular intervals thereafter. Spark plugs of the right size, plus spare air and oil filters, are also worth keeping in stock. A trickle charger to keep the generator battery topped up isn't a bad idea, either.)
Finally, run the generator regularly to make sure it's in good working order. Some recommend every month; others, every quarter. If it won't start when you desperately need it, you aren't going to be very happy (and even less so when your family finds out)!
My preferred solution for electric power is to use one or more electric power banks, which are sometimes referred to as power generators or solar generators. They usually offer a more expensive solution than generators (at least, at today's prices), but they're also much more convenient, can be carried to wherever you need them, can be easily recharged by even a small generator, and don't smell of exhaust fumes or drip fuel and oil on your floor! There are many models, some of which you'll find at the link above, but I'd divide them into three size categories based on likely use.
The first are small power banks up to 1KW (kilowatt - 1,000 watts) in power and a similar storage capacity in KWh (kilowatt-hours - the energy used to produce one kilowatt of power for one hour). These can't run anything very big in power draw, but for lightweight use (portable lights with LED bulbs, charging cellphones or tablets, game consoles, etc.) they can be very convenient. I know some families who keep a couple on hand to let their kids use them while Mom and Dad use a larger power bank for larger power needs (e.g. TV, DVD player, computer, etc.) Small units are also useful to power low-draw appliances such as a CPAP machine or oxygen generating device, which are often important for home health care. Check the appliance's power draw and make sure the battery bank you buy has adequate power and storage capacity to cope with its needs.
The next category is what I'll call medium power banks, 1.5-4KW in power and a similar storage capacity in KWh. These are general-purpose workhorses, usually portable, and with enough stored energy to be useful for several hours before needing to be recharged. My personal favorite at present is the Bluetti Elite 400, for two reasons: one, its capacities are 2.6KW power and 3.84KWh storage capacity, which meet most of our needs, and two, it's on wheels with an extendable handle. Being a larger, heavier unit (about 85 pounds), and because my wife and I both have health issues restricting us from lifting heavy loads, the Elite 400 is much easier for us to move around the house if necessary. There are, of course, many competitors to the Bluetti. Shop around and see which you prefer. Also, don't forget extension cords so you can plug in your fridge, freezer(s), etc. to the power bank, no matter where it is.
Finally, there are whole-house battery banks, some from providers such as Bluetti, some permanent installations such as the Tesla Powerwall. Such banks are much larger than portable units, and many require professional installation, usually along with solar power panels to keep them charged when grid power is shut off for any reason. They're an excellent solution, but very expensive; the least you can expect to pay for all components (batteries, solar panels, wiring, plus installation) is usually $25,000 or more. On the other hand, they tend to work very well, and give owners peace of mind. (For example, you can read Divemedic's blog posts on his Florida installation at this link, from most recent to oldest.)
I find battery banks' convenience and ease of use to be head and shoulders above any other low- to medium-cost solution. We have the equivalent of about 14KWh stored across a few units, charged and ready to go, which should be enough to get us through two to three days before we have to run a generator to recharge them. With judicious use and not wasting power, I think we could go several weeks without electricity from the grid, if we had to.
What about heat? If the HVAC system goes out, we're reduced to what we can power using our battery banks and/or generator. In both cases, in extreme temperatures, we'd move into one or two rooms and heat or cool only them. For heating indoors, a fireplace is a very desirable option, and/or a wood-burning stove: if you don't have one, but can fit one to your home at an affordable price, I highly recommend it. Otherwise, I use and recommend the Mr. Buddy propane indoor-safe heaters, which utilize the familiar green Coleman fuel cylinders and can be fitted with an adapter to run them off conventional propane cylinders. (With any fire or propane heater, remember the danger from carbon monoxide, and take appropriate precautions!)
There are electric options if you don't like fire or other fuel. Given a suitable size of power bank, you can buy low-power electric heaters from 400W up to about 900W. A medium-size power bank can run a 400-500W heater all night long. They're not very hot, but will warm a 10x10 foot bedroom, which will do nicely in freezing weather. Larger rooms, not so much - but then, in an emergency, one has to compensate by adjusting one's lifestyle. If you have an electric blanket, a medium-size power bank will also run that all night long, making things very snug.
What if it's summer, and you want to keep things cool? Air-conditioning units are power hogs, to put it mildly. Even the smallest window or stand-alone unit will drain an average power bank in a couple of hours. I'd suggest using fans instead of air-conditioners, and venting the hot air inside through windows and doors as the day cools down. Only a whole-house power backup system will allow you to run your HVAC as usual, even without incoming power from the grid.
Cooking? Use camping gear such as butane or propane stoves. They're simple, relatively cheap, and work on almost any surface. You won't (I hope!) burn them long enough to pose a carbon monoxide hazard: if that worries you, use them on a table in your garage. I'd suggest having two burners, because a single burner might limit what dishes you can cook (and get extra fuel cartridges for them). The good old Coleman 2-burner camping stove has been around for decades, and still works well, but it's a lot more expensive than it used to be. Buying two single-burner butane stoves can often be much cheaper. Make sure to clean the stove(s) and cooking utensils thoroughly; sanitary cooking conditions are important for your family's health.
I won't speak to needs such as food, clothing, warm blankets, etc. We've addressed those subjects several times in the past, and many Web sites have done likewise. You pays your money and you takes your choice. However, there are a few things you'll do well to remember.
- If your kids need to be entertained, have a stock of board games, coloring books and crayons, etc. on hand. Game consoles, etc. are not useful if you can't switch them on! TV's can be a problem because of their power consumption. If you want to use one, get an extra power bank for the purpose.
- Batteries, batteries, BATTERIES!!! Make a note of what size of battery (AAA, AA, C-cell, D-cell, 9V, etc.) your toys and small appliances need, and then stock up on them (and rotate your stocks frequently, so you always have fresh supplies when you need them). I keep at least 50 AAA and 50 AA cells on hand, and I try to buy only small battery appliances that use that size. I have a dozen C- and D-cells, and 9V as well, just in case. For a larger family, I'd say 100 of each important size is not unreasonable.
- If it's going to freeze, get your emergency supplies into the house and out of the worst cold before the storm hits, if possible. It's no fun to have a week's water in reserve, in case your taps and/or pipes freeze up - only to find that your reserve water containers are also frozen!
- Have plenty of paper plates and bowls, and plastic drinking cups, available. That way, you won't have to waste water and time washing up dishes. You can simply throw it all away.
- For your vehicles, have windscreen de-icing fluid, ice scrapers, show brushes, etc. on hand, and use them regularly so you can drive if you have to. It may be better not to, but if you have to get a family member to a doctor or hospital quickly, or evacuate to a hotel if your home becomes uninhabitable for some reason, you want to be able to move quickly.
- Keep in touch with friends and family nearby. Make sure everybody's OK. You could save lives that way.
That's a quick pass through most of the questions I was asked. If you have something I haven't addressed, please ask it in Comments: and readers, please feel free to answer such questions, or contribute ideas from your own experience. We can all learn from each other.
Stay safe out there!
Peter

One recommendation I saw years ago, was to keep rechargeable AA and AAA batteries; and have all of your outdoor lighting with solar recharging capabilities. Swap batteries as needed. More feasible in summer probably.
ReplyDeleteI bought a bunch of rechargeables to use in some mini-spotlights that I use to display some stone carvings in the living room. The mini-spotlights eat up batteries very quickly. Three new AA batteries would last several evenings with all the lights on. But the rechargeables were good for only a a couple or three hours, and it took overnight to charge them up. Not a good deal at all.
DeleteJWM
Not sure if you could justify the purchase of separate winter tires and wheels for your vehicle in your locale. I have had dedicated wheels and real winter tires -- Michelin Ice -X, Nokian Hakkapellitta, and now Bridgestone Blizzaks for the whole time I have lived in New Hampshire. Four season tires are really three season tires and the winter tires, having two mounted sets, means I can put them on myself. It also means my regular tires life is extended as well. I couldn't get up my driveway in some cases with my regular tires, the modern snow tires really do make a difference.
ReplyDeleteI agree the best bet is to not drive in snow, but this works well for me here.
I have a couple of the Mr. Buddy heaters; as for the prices on their website, they are far higher than what I have paid for mine, Walmart carries the portable Mr. Buddy heater for about $89 vs the $144 listed on the mfr website. They are easy to use, and one 1lb Colman propane cylinder will last about 4-4.5 hours with the heater set on low. I live in one of the areas in south TX that was without power for over 5 days (in an all electric house) during winter storm Uri but manged to keep the pipes from freezing. Know where your water shutoff is and how to turn it off and how to drain the water out of the pipes (easier than it sounds, check the local water utility website or local help number for more information.) As during the summer, we can have quite a few 100-105 F days in a row, I will be acquiring a dual fuel generator; I'm in my early 60's and would find it difficult/dangerous to be without AC.
ReplyDeleteCombine a generator and a power bank if you can. Run the generator and charge the power bank. Most power banks have solar panel options as well. The point is to run the generator in idle or low loads as little as possible. Have remote temperature monitors for your refrigerator and freezer. My power bank can run the refrigerator or the freezer, but not both. I use a power strip to control who gets the power. Figure out what essential and non essential loads are in your house. Everything is smart, or has a status light. All those little loads add up. I open all the breakers in my box and then shut only the 3 for essential loads.
ReplyDeleteI built my own power bank to run on car batteries. Plenty of videos out there, but I can charge from the grid, from the generator, or from solar. Pick the right size inverter. Redundancy is key. By making my own, I have spare cables, terminals, etc that would allow me to expand (i.e. take the battery from one of our cars) if I really need to.
Xoph@519: "car battery" meaning deep-cycle, not car starting battery, I hope. Different construction for a different purpose.
DeleteWe live far to the south of you (south Texas RGV) and the latest arctic blast produced freezing temperatures of six or less hours. We never ever run the heater (last night A/C thermostat claimed 63 degrees) so we just put on a vest or light windbreaker and call it good.
ReplyDeleteBatteries: store them in their original packaging to prevent corrosion.
ReplyDeleteCandles: use battery-powered electric candles (some are on a timer) to eliminate the fire danger.
Oil lamps are another light source, and they're inexpensive.
I didn't notice use your car option. A decent sine wave smaller inverter can be found with battery clips as to use your running car to recharge your power packs and run the freezer-refrigerators for a bit to extend safe food cooling.
ReplyDeleteTheft of important systems IS a problem. Might want to figure out how to protect things like your car's gasoline tank from the under the car dude if fuel becomes a scarce supply.
I'm a fan of these Harbor Freight Braun lanterns. They run on D-Cell batteries and have long run time, especially on their low setting. I keep two of them in a bin, along with extra batteries in case of a longer blackout. They put out a lot of light, and the shade makes the light much less harsh. You can usually get them for $20 or less on sale.
ReplyDeleteI also store a power bank in the bin; it's actually a lithium-ion jump-starter for a car, but it makes a nice power bank for recharging phones and tablets. They're inexpensive on Amazon, and hold a charge for a long time.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lumen-4-mode-soft-shade-portable-lantern-58489.html?_br_psugg_q=lantern
On generators - you CANNOT leave it for months on end with regular gas in the tank/carb or else it'll foul up. The alcohol in the gas will attract moisture too, with all the problems that entails. So, once done with it, try to either consume or drain all the regular fuel out. Then get some of that "TruFuel" stuff that's ~$20 per gallon, trust me it's worth it. Pour it in the tank, then restart the generator long enough to run some of the good stuff thru the carb again and flush the regular gas out. Then close the fuel line and run the carb dry. Leave the TruFuel in the tank.
ReplyDeleteI've done this religiously and you can pull it out of storage a year later, starts on the first pull.
Too true! If you can find it in your area, ethanol free fuel is available at some gas stations. Expect to pay more, but it is the only fuel to use in a storage situation. Regular gas will ruin every device it's kept in.
DeleteAs for batteries, I have a Battery Daddy storage box ($15 on Amazon) that stores a bunch of batteries of all sizes, so I never have to go looking through drawers when I need a battery. I can also see readily when I'm low on a certain size and reload it. That way, I never have the fun of needing a battery only to pull an empty package from a drawer because someone took the last batteries and put the empty package back in a drawer.
ReplyDeleteknow how and be capable of, opening your garage door with the power off. Do not put money into a car battery based energy storage system unless you are not able to do anything else.
ReplyDeletewhole house genset is the way to go.
ReplyDeleteGarage sales. One of my nephews has picked up two or three liquid fueled Coleman two burner camp stoves. They were older ones, but, two of the three worked fine, the third just needed a new gasket for the pump. Next, make sure your CO2 monitor works on batteries. I've run both a Buddy Heater and a 18.5k BTU Kerosene heater indoors (not at the same time) without needing to crack a window - the house was a tad bit drafty - but I made sure to have a CO2 monitor near by and in an appropriate spot to alert to a problem before it became an issue.
ReplyDeleteI've also got backup battery capacity.
ReplyDeleteI keep the Group 31 batteries for my motor coach in the basement for maintenance charging when it's in storage.
That's 2 each group 31 starting batteries and 2 each group 31 deep cycle "house batteries".
A 3kw sine wave inverter carries my gas furnace, fridge, freezer overnight while my 9.5 kw inverter genset is off.
Unfortunately, my deep well pump is 220 vac, so I have to run the genset periodically in daylight hours for that, but the batteries are charging when the genset is running.
The starting batteries can be damaged by drawing them down too far, so I keep them unhooked unless I need extra juice.
The deep cycle batteries are rated 110Ah each, so plenty for overnight low load use (furnace blower, fridge, freezer, & a few lights.
I wish I had upgraded to lithium house batteries prior to retirement, but now they're just too expensive now.
A point for having a battery bank like this is that you can recharge with your car/truck and jumper cables.
My old 1998 5.7 Subdivision (suburban) has an upgraded 150 amp alternator.
Still thinking about getting a VFD to hook to the traction battery of my 2018 Prius prime so I can plug it in and let it cycle on-off.
A VFD programmed to give me 230 vac @ 60hz while having the input DC buss connected to the traction battery should give me ~35A usable current.
The cool thing about the Prius Prime (& Prius) is leaving it in Ready mode, the ICE (gas engine) will start and stop to maintain the battery.
Automatically.
So, a genset that I can also drive to the store to refuel and pick up a six pack.
And quieter than a genset.
And no extra maintenance on a separate genset.
And redundancy.
Can you tell I'm a retired Controls Engineer?
Add Emory cloth and a nail file to your battery stash. I’ve had batteries freeze and leak in the equipment. The Emory cloth cleans up the contacts to get going again. The Duracell seem to be the most leak prone from freeze. We use the summer propane grill in the garage. We have a kerosene heater but wife hates the smell when operating. So consider that before buying. Our kerosene table lamps put a lot of heat out the glass chimney, found the ceiling getting hot several feet away from the lamp. Have to keep them turned down. I do not recommend them as a result. Recharge batteries I agree run down quickly. I’ve bought the cheap to super expensive. No difference. Headlamps.,one per person rather than carrying a light around. Drinking water… it froze in garage… oopps. Mtn house freeze dried food worked pretty well along with canned meat. Issue was enough water to rehydrate. Bathroom… lots of water needed.
ReplyDeletean alarm that emits 130 decibels if NOT grounded (when the generator is removed) with radio-controlled on-off switch should suffice
ReplyDeleteyou guys act like this is the end of the world. Around here it is another day at the office. Light is important but staying warm is more. A reason our ancestors went to bed and rose with the sun. As to keeping arm, a down comforter will go a long way. Light sources with out flame are best, with flame can be used to good effect, just keep in mind what burns and you should be OK.
ReplyDeleteThere are many old tricks to survive the cold. Long johns are your best friend if you are out an about. Not bad for lounging around. Wool long johns will cook you. The synthetic will help wick moisture from the skin and then cotton outer layer will help.
Doesn't matter where you live, other parts of the country will consider it too cold/hot. Those are the people who need the advice for "extreme" weather.
DeleteAs I told a friend laughing at people complaining of 80F heat "When I was visiting you that September, what "fall weather" for Bakersfield, was considered "Mid summer" in Seattle.
Sometimes the lights go out at the office too. 'Never hurts to be ready for whatever...
DeleteBatteries. Costco's Kirkland line is priced right and made by Duracell, although it would appear Kirkland does not offer "D" cells.
ReplyDeleteWe got a couple of these at Costco a few years ago for something like $19.95 per--
https://a.co/d/dzAK96X
Am just using this as an example that I am familiar with. Not sure they're even made anymore, however there are many others out there. Features I like-
--Internal battery that can be charged with USB. USB can be reversed to charge something else. Comes with USB cable.
--Solar recharge.
--Or run on four D-cells.
--Flashing red strobe that could come in handy on the road at night.
Genny storage: if you're not going to be able to run the genny every month or so, store it dry. Empty the fuel tank. Run the genny until the bowl empties and the engine starts to cough, then pull the choke. This will clear the fuel bowl of ALL remaining fuel. As an added protection I spray a little starting fluid into the carb and fire the engine up just to be sure the tank and engine are sucked completely dry. Slosh the tank around a little to make sure you got all the gas out of it. You can use one of those little hand-pumped siphon hoses to get that last bit out. At that point, you can store the genny as long as you want. If you're storing REALLY long-term, squirt a little oil into the cylinders and roll the engine to coat the cylinder walls and piston rings. This'll keep the engine from "getting stuck." For the record, I've found that Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) does a pretty good job of stabilizing gas and keeping the carburetor from fouling up. I have a couple of older Yamaha 1Kw gennies that are notorious for carb gunking if left to sit even for as little as a month. I forgot to drain one of them of its fuel/MMO mix for about six months. It fired right up anyway and ran with no issues. I use MMO in ALL of my small engines.
ReplyDeleteI use kerosene heaters in my house for the most part in winter, leaving the HVAC for nighttime. They save a lot of electricity and wear and tear on the HVAC system. Just know that, like any combustion, they consume oxygen and emit carbon monoxide. That being said, they do about as much of both as a larger kerosene lantern.
TEST your generator with what you plan to run on it! Construction-grade gennies produce "dirty" power; a "modified square wave" instead of a sine wave. Many computer-based appliances DO NOT LIKE this, and either won't run or won't run right. My CPU-based gas stove would run enough to light the burners, but the digital operator panel just flashed 8's. The oven was useless because it couldn't be set, and the thermostat was electronic. The same can go for the refrigerator, washing machine, TV, internet router, and the like. Even my dishwasher has a motherboard! For these, you want an inverter generator. These put out much cleaner power. They're DESIGNED to run electronics.
Our house uses gas appliances, but if needed, I prefer the Coleman liquid-fueled stoves. Yes, they're a little more involved to use, but one tank of fuel will run the things all night long if needed. 'Same goes for the lanterns, though there are so many low-voltage/high light output electric options, there's not a lot of need for the Colemans. The upside of the Colemans in the winter is that they throw a considerable amount of heat during operation.
Adding a note on windshields. Fastest way to remove frost or snow, is to put a cloth on it before the frost/snow arrives.
ReplyDeleteWorked second shift, many the night my coworkers are trying to scrap the frost off to go home, while I just whipped that square of fabric off and left.
pyotr: I have a windshield protector with magnets sewn in around the margin so it should seal up Real Good. I congratulated my self on buying the bigger size, so I could cover the entire windshield and wrap around the side posts, extending into the passenger compartment, using the doors to pin it in place. Six inches of snow? No problem! The first time we got heavy rain instead of the forecast snow, I found wrinkles in the fabric made natural funnels directing the rain directly onto the seats. Oops. Live and learn!
DeleteThere's an old-school solution for both light and heat. A good old propane lantern. They burn relatively cleanly (some venting needed) but produce excellent light, which can be aimed with aluminum foil or aluminum pizza pans.
ReplyDeleteYou can get 'posts' that connect to the top of a 20lb propane container that has space for a lantern on top and multiple hookups for other propane-powered devices, like heaters or cooktops.
Get a handful of mantles and practice on tying and burning new mantles. It's relatively easy but does need some knowledge in how to use.
The light and heat produced are a welcome addition on cold wet nights.
As to kerosene lanterns, they're very old school but work a treat. Metal ones are good but if you can find some old glass ones they produce better light.
A $100 diesel "parking heater" can be useful, it sips power - 10's of watts - and will use less than a gallon a day of diesel on medium.
ReplyDeleteI have used kerosene heaters indoors, with a good wick the odor is tolerable for me, others find it naseau inducing.
Mr. Buddy's work indoors, but the moisture buildup is amazing.
You want a CO/propane/lowO2 sensor for a indoor open flame system.
I learned that most of my stock of batteries were bad in the package before the best used by date.
ReplyDeleteWhen I worked for TXU back in the 1980s, we started our locomotive engine diesels (2,000 kW) and submarine engine diesels (1,200 kW) weekly and ran them for an hour to clear the water out of the lubricating oil. They were all two stroke diesels and would shoot raw fuel out of the stacks until they warmed up. We had about 200 of them across the 125 unit steam power plant system and still did not have enough black start power.
ReplyDeleteI have a Generac 38 kW whole house generator with a 10 second automatic transfer switch. It is liquid cooled with a Mitsubishi four cylinder turbocharged motor running at 1,800 rpm, very quiet. The fuel is natural gas from my natural gas meter. If the natural gas grid goes down then I am stuck but so far in five years, no problems. We have been using it a lot lately since Centerpoint is replacing the poles in our neighborhood with the new fiberglass composite poles. Plus we ran on the gennie for four days last summer when the grid was down in our neighborhood way outside Houston.
ReplyDeleteI use a Dewalt battery flash light with a usb for light and phones. For heat we have a propane sealed unit with thermostat. It has internal battery back up. We have only used the battery back up one time in the last 10 years. Propane only costs around $300 per year. I always start the year with a full tank after the previous snowmageddon. We only had to buy smokes and a bag of chips before the storm. Everything else was in the pantry. Tom
ReplyDeleteWe have a 2 burner propane cooktop, designed for camping, kept on the porch, as well as a gas stove in the house. Meal prep is no problem. We run our gas generator one hour, then off for 3 or 4. It keeps the freezer & fridge cold, we can run the well pump and the furnace plus lights. It’s not big enough to run microwaves and toasters or the whole house, but it’s adequate. Saves on the amount of fuel to run it. We have a couple of small solar panels in the window that charge old car batteries. We can run 12V lights off them, and recharge cell phones.
ReplyDeleteWool sweaters or polar fleece, long underwear, a fleece cap if you’re still cold. Socks and shoes, no crocs or silly footwear.
We have 2 wood stoves for primary heat.
Southern NH
We use headlamps, many kinds available. Hands free light, long lasting, rechargeable. We also keep battery lanterns, some are solar powered, as well as old hurricane lamps and Coleman lanterns. We also carry a small flashlight in a pocket, everyday, year round.
ReplyDeleteSouthern Nh
As someone from Saskatchewan and has worked in the far North, the reading here has been interesting to say the least.
ReplyDelete