The idle musings of a former military man, former computer geek, medically retired pastor and now full-time writer. Contents guaranteed to offend the politically correct and anal-retentive from time to time. My approach to life is that it should be taken with a large helping of laughter, and sufficient firepower to keep it tamed!
I am a mechanic like that. Forty five years of fighting rusty, bent, corroded and over tightened bolts will do that to a fella. Great graphic my man. All that is missing is a BFH. ( Big Freaking Hammer)
One of my granddad's favorite expressions was "Don't force it...get a bigger hammer." Also with regard to wood screws, the slots are only there to remove them.
My grandad had 1,3 and 5. 1 to 5 happened pretty quick and 3 was used in assembly. He was a mechanic from 1915 to 1962 full time. Part time till just before his death in 1995.
One of the most complete collections in my toolbox is a drawer that contains my screw, bolt, and stud extractors. It consists of 50 or so straight and spiral flue types in sizes from small machine screws to 1" pipe, left-hand drill bits stripped screw and bolt extractors, homemade stud extractors, etc.
You are always one broken bolt away from turning a 15 minute job into 8 hours of living hell!
One of my favorites is the hex headed short spiral flue Irwin set with 25 different sizes. I have not found a stripped Allen screw that I could not remove in seconds.
Recently I used tool #3, when I should have used #4, which necessitated the use of an electric #5, to attach a new head on the broken cylinder head bolt, which finally enabled me to remove the broken stub.
Seems Ford didn't ensure the head casting was properly cleaned before assembly and installation on the engine block. The threaded hole was filled with what appeared to be sand. Some of the other holes were similar, but not as bad (tight). I suspect this would have had a bad effect on the needed bolt torque. I'm thinking this might have a bearing on leaking head gaskets. '96 3.0L v6 in a Ranger. Odd thread size, so I cut slots in the threads of a good bolt to simulate a tap for hole cleanout. It needed it, as solvents and oil with an air nozzle didn't clean the threads completely.
The Flame Wrench is, indeed, the "Court Of Last Resort" - if one is creul, and a bit skillful, only a minimum amount of "corrective re-construction" may be needed...hopefully!
16 comments:
I'm related to mechanics like that...
The last one is sometimes referred to as a Hot Wrench.
I am a mechanic like that.
Forty five years of fighting rusty, bent, corroded and over tightened bolts will do that to a fella.
Great graphic my man.
All that is missing is a BFH.
( Big Freaking Hammer)
One of my granddad's favorite expressions was "Don't force it...get a bigger hammer." Also with regard to wood screws, the slots are only there to remove them.
The Blue Wrench is always the last resort.
But it is always there if you need it.
I, myself, have said the words, "This is coming apart even if I have to use oxy-acetelyne!"
I can't just say torch any more... Too many different torches around here and a Brit friend who'd be an ass and hand me a flashlight.
My grandad had 1,3 and 5. 1 to 5 happened pretty quick and 3 was used in assembly. He was a mechanic from 1915 to 1962 full time. Part time till just before his death in 1995.
Hot wrench will fix anything.
Ha ha ha ha. I love it.
I too have known men who worked like this. What is amazing is how much can be accomplished.
I see Phill beat me to the hammer bit... ;-)
Hey Peter;
LOL "The Blue tip Smoke Wrench", that is what the last one is called.
What the hand of man hath put together, the hand of man can also put asunder. And vice versa.
There is one further step, one which involves high explosives and a rousing cry of "fire in the hole!"
One of the most complete collections in my toolbox is a
drawer that contains my screw, bolt, and stud extractors.
It consists of 50 or so straight and spiral flue types
in sizes from small machine screws to 1" pipe, left-hand
drill bits stripped screw and bolt extractors, homemade
stud extractors, etc.
You are always one broken bolt away from turning a 15
minute job into 8 hours of living hell!
One of my favorites is the hex headed short spiral flue
Irwin set with 25 different sizes. I have not found a
stripped Allen screw that I could not remove in seconds.
Recently I used tool #3, when I should have used #4, which necessitated the use of an electric #5, to attach a new head on the broken cylinder head bolt, which finally enabled me to remove the broken stub.
Seems Ford didn't ensure the head casting was properly cleaned before assembly and installation on the engine block. The threaded hole was filled with what appeared to be sand. Some of the other holes were similar, but not as bad (tight). I suspect this would have had a bad effect on the needed bolt torque. I'm thinking this might have a bearing on leaking head gaskets. '96 3.0L v6 in a Ranger. Odd thread size, so I cut slots in the threads of a good bolt to simulate a tap for hole cleanout. It needed it, as solvents and oil with an air nozzle didn't clean the threads completely.
The Flame Wrench is, indeed, the "Court Of Last Resort" - if one is creul, and a bit skillful, only a minimum amount of "corrective re-construction" may be needed...hopefully!
Uncle Lar,
It is quite common that removing a ships propeller involves explosives.
It is expected and a common occurrence.
Post a Comment