Thank you to everyone who responded to my car question yesterday. It looks like, thanks to tariffs and other issues, repairs may cost north of $3K, and given that the value of the car is probably not much greater than that, the calculus is leaning in the direction of replacement.
Online research shows that there's virtually nothing worth having under $10K in the used car market. Either the mileage is as great or greater than our present vehicle, or there are persistent reliability issues, or availability is haphazard. Moving up to $15K doesn't improve things very much, although there is a greater selection. At $20K upward, there's plenty of availability, but low-mileage vehicles remain hard to find in good condition: most are in the 80-140K mile range, with some notable exceptions. That means, if we want a reliable replacement to use for the medium to long term, we have to look at new vehicles as well.
The cheapest new vehicle I can find is the Kia Soul (which I've driven before, and is OK as an urban runabout), or the Ford Maverick mini-pickup. The Maverick's ride quality isn't great, but it's a truck, not a car, and can't be expected to be as soft-riding and comfortable as the Soul. It does have the advantage of reasonably good utility, with a small loadbed and a back seat that can accommodate a fair amount of baggage or household debris. Both the Soul and the Maverick (in base model configuration) are in the mid-$20K base price range, plus tax, title, license, etc. If we move up to the $30-$35K range, there are a lot more options, but then, that's a lot more money.
There's also the big disadvantage that some manufacturers are now demanding monthly subscription payments to use even the most basic in-car services (Toyota, I'm looking at you!). I'm simply not prepared to do this. There are also dealers who advertise "no-haggle" prices (that always seem higher than those who will negotiate), and others who low-ball trade-in offers. There are also too many dealers who add gimmicks pre-sale (e.g. windows engraved with an "anti-theft" serial number, nitrogen tire fills, etc.), and want to charge hundreds of dollars for them, and won't sell you a vehicle without them. There are an awful lot of shysters out there, it seems to me . . . Any advice on tell-tale signs that a particular dealer may be more trouble than he's worth? Obvious red flags?
Therefore, I turn to knowledgeable readers again, to ask for your input. The need is for local transport of one or two older people, with occasional longer-distance excursions (e.g. 300-400 mile round trip in a day). Economy is important, as is reliability, and the vehicle should not cost an arm and a leg to insure.
- If you were looking for a lower-cost vehicle for that mission, what would you recommend? New or used?
- Has anyone had experience with the Ford Maverick mini-pickup models? I'd be very interested to hear what they're like to own, particularly reliability, ride quality, etc. Their overall utility is appealing.
- Is there any vehicle that you absolutely would not recommend, due to issues, problems, or whatever?
Thanks in advance for your input. I'm grateful for your help.
Peter
72 comments:
My wife and I fit your demographic description to a T and have been driving a Mazda CX5 for a number of years. We're quite happy with it. We bought it used for $22K 4 years ago. There seem to be quite a few used ones available in the local market for $20-$25K with mileage below 50K. New seems to be around $35-40K. My mechanic (my son's brother in law) says they're great cars and very reliable.
Take a moment to look at Dave Smith in Kellogg, Idaho. He has a solid reputation for good, used vehicles. The reputation and pricing for both new and used vehicles is such that buyers from all over the country find it economical to go there.
Dave
You can't go wrong with a toyota corrola.
The only thing I would say is that Nissan seems to have reliability/longevity issues around their CVT Transmissions. Avoid these. (and I like Nissans just not the CVT)
Have had 3 SOULs and wife and I joke about KIA building tough trucks. Wife ran through a coupole years of craft shows and we used the SOUL to haul all of her craft "schtuff" around this end of Ohio and loved it.
I would suggest jumping through a few hoops and getting posting membership at "Timebomb2000" so you can use the expertise of a guy who posts as "Alfaman", who inspects cars for a living, for various embassies and agencies.
But even so, you will have to actually try HARD to beat a SOUL.
I'm a van guy, I have a 2010 Chrysler T&C, the seats fold into the floor so it's easy to carry sheets good when i have to, plenty of room for stuff (groceries for example) that will stay dry if I go through a car wash or a rainstorm (unlike the bed of a pickup). Past that it drives like a car.
But, like I said, I am a van guy.
I would consider subscribing to Consumers Union. They have recommendations for used cars in all the price brackets. Their recommendations are based on input from many thousands of members.
Not sure about your exact area but check out Govdeals.com, that's were many States and municipalities off load vehicles on auction. I'm sure there is more competition down there but I was able to pick up a 2014 PIU (Police Interceptor version of the Explorer). One advantage to former government vehicles is they tend to get all their maintenance done, generally on time, and well documented. Mine came with an inch thick binder of maintenance records and according to my mechanic it should be good for another 100,000 miles.
So, $30K across a 5-year auto loan instead of $3K for repairs. Sounds to me like you're talking yourself into trying to pay $6,300/yr to avoid paying $3,000/yr.
I'm afraid the "trade the vehicle in when the cost of repair is half the value of the trade-in" died an ugly death when Cash For Clunkers gutted the used-car market. In the days of $1,000 clunkers that would run along fine for 3-4 years before dying permanently, or needing to become a mechanic's project, it made perfect sense to sell the car for $200 and pick up another car for $1,000 rather than try to tackle the transmission.
When we bought the Subie for $7,000, I held onto it until the repair bill was going to be over $10K... not because I was basing it on some theoretical blue book, but on what it'd cost me to replace it. Three years later, I'm still paying more on auto loans and increased insurance bill *every single year* than it cost me to buy the Subie.
I vote for paying the repair bill, and counting it as saving half the annual cost of a new vehicle.
Toyota 4-Runner, used, with v6, preferably under 150k miles, maybe a range of 2006-2016, with a careful pre-purchase inspection. You may have to look for a couple months, but they're out there. Honda Accord and Toyota Camry, same. I don't trust Nissans and Subarus.
Nissan versa, reliable and not expensive new. Also, look at subaru.
Dealers are too much like politicians, say one thing and bury a lot of scheiss in the boilerplate. Always negotiate out the door price. Period. This forces the sales team figure out how they can back out sales tax, registration fees, transportation charges, holding fees, etc out of the deal and they can allocate the remainder any way they see fit. Don’t care. Avoids arguing over the hidden fee or dealer added but I don’t want BS.
I like the way they look. Are they comfortable for long drives? Like two or three thousand miles one way? what kind of gas mileage did you get? I know it depends on many things. Did you have any mechanical issues? I like KIA cars. Thank you
You might be able to find this info at the library.
Maybe just lease something brand new and not worry about buying someone else’s maintenance headache.
"Out the door" price is what you want.
Your local library should carry their reports - no need to pay money for them.
Parts, since I do all my own work, are rockauto.com. Choices from economy to OEM parts, and corresponding prices. Find a local kid who's always working on his car in the drive, offer him $500 and you supply parts and beer/soda during the process. I'm not a trained auto guy, but outside of vehicle electronics, it's still all workable.
CarGurus.com is where I've found my last 2 vehicles. I found out early on that 'new' is not a great value when you can wait a year, and get that same vehicle for $10K less. A near mint 15 Silverado double cab 4x4 5.3L for $16K (85K mi) and a 01 Chevy Blazer 4dr w/ 43K mi for $4K. Chevy's on a Ford dealers lot. 165K on the Silverado, and near 90K on the Blazer, with zero issues on either one so far. If I need something else, I'll go back to Cargurus first off.
Love my Rav4.
I watch Scotty Kilmer on Youtube. He thinks the older Toyota Matrix is the best quality used car on the market. I agree find a really good independent shop to go over any used car before you buy. They cannot hide the computer code. My M.O. is if you think you will live another 10 years or more go new. Just use a local Credit Union if you can they are the best loan source and look there first, they often have loan default cars returned and usually want them sold. Ken (currently driving a 05 Buick LeSabre with 112,000 miles)
https://www.autotrader.com/car-shopping/best-ford-maverick-years-buy-used#:~:text=Since%20the%20Ford%20Maverick%20launched,and%20a%20fuel%2Defficient%20hybrid.
Did a quick look.... my brother has one and loves it.. great fuel economy but he paid close to 40,000 with all the upgrades. and he has bitched about having to hack the electronics to fix issues. He sorta likes that kinda thing but I wouldn't buy one.. looks to me to be a electronic nightmare over the years based on reputation.
May be chasing unicorns, but what about refurbished old cars. No electronic gimmicks to go bluescreen on you, and easier to maintain. Don't know if they sell cars from their degree program, but McPherson College in Kansas offers a degree in classic car restoration.
There's a LOT to say for having a truck ready to hand, even if it only "trucks" a day or two a month.
I came very close to buying a Maverick, but ended up with a Honda Ridgeline because I wanted the extra passenger space in the back seat. I am very happy with it.
One of my sons doesn't care what people think of his car. He has a 2001 Ford Focus with a ton of miles that he spends $1500 a year on repairs. He reasons what he spends on repairs won't make a down payment on something newer that inevitably will need repairs. In his case, he wants something that starts and gets him down the road.
Repair shop owners will often refuse to do work that will exceed the market value of the car based on bad experiences with customers not understanding the reality of market value and what insurance will pay on a totaled vehicle.
If your repairs are not lasting I would get a second or third opinion from other shops.
We have had good luck with certified used vehicles from both ford and gm. Got both around 2019, under 25,000 miles, both 2016 models and both around $20k. Still had a good bit of warranty so we were not getting a lemon.
Just bought my daughter a car at Autolenders and was extremely satisfied with the experience, sale and post sale. Service is great. In NJ. For what it’s worth.
DO NOT buy the new Ford Bronco or Ford Bronco sport. They've had to recall hundreds of thousands of them because of an issue that can cause a catastrophic engine failure.
Also, do not buy any Chrysler product with the 3.6L V6 pentastar engine. Chrysler got sued for concealing problems with that engine.
I would never consider buying a new car today - no reliability, no power, lots of plastic, a computer on wheels . . .
Look extensively at cars dotcom, autotrader dotcom, and Edmunds dotcom. Play around with make and model. Set the mileage parameters at say 50-75 k miles depending on vehicle reliability. If you and your wife are okay with driving separately, look within 500 miles of your location (say a two day drive out and then back again).
There are a lot of good used vehicles, 2010-2019, out there (any newer and you get all the new 'safety' beepers and electronic surveillance crap on steroids). Look at YT for the most reliable/recommended years for the model(s) you narrow down to.
After having driven crappy used American vehicles for a while with way too much $ wasted on tows and repairs, we've stuck with Toyotas now for over a decade. We bought a 2017 4runner, 4 wheel drive, 50k miles, excellent condition, about 18 months ago for $30k out the door and have no complaints. When finances permit, we plan on adding back a 2018 rav (better gas mileage for local jaunts). Do not get the 2019/2020 ravs - we did not like either when we leased them. Try to get one with a vin beginning in 'J' - made in Japan. You can get one for $17-20k depending on mileage, etc.
A vehicle is a tool to get you from point A to point B. Fix what you have and budget for the future recurring repairs on the suspension. You will never get ahead of the depreciating value of a vehicle.
Subaru Forester was our choice after researching and test driving several models. We had 2 RAV4s over 20 years. They were reliable and well built. Don’t know about current models. They seem to be getting bigger, fancier, and more expensive. We did not like the 2 local dealers, so went with Subaru.
The subie has a reputation for longevity and durability.
If you have car knowledge, or a friend who does, you might check Craigslist for a private sale. We sold our RAV that way. Retirees who don’t drive much may have a model with low mileage and in decent shape, for a reasonable price. Keep an eye out for ‘selling Mom’s car’. Also repair shops, if you have one you trust.
Southern NH
My wife's car is a 2013 Toyota Camry. Extremely reliable. Not loaded with electronics. Previously she had a Subaru Outback. That thing was a money pit.
Toyota camry 2001-2006 are pretty reliable. Even with high miles. Good economy too.
I also recommend the Toyota Corolla (just bought one new last year). As for dealers: how far are you from Las Cruces, NM? I shopped around at some different Toyota dealerships in my area and Viva Toyota of Las Cruces offered me the best deal - I also liked doing business with them (communicated well with me, didn't try to pull anything on me). It was a long drive but I just stayed at a local hotel and drove back the next day.
I'm with others. First, I'd make the repairs unless the vehicle really doesn't suit you: don't look at cost compared to that vehicle - look at cost compared to a replacement vehicle.
Second, I'd look for less common and less wanted vehicles that will be less expensive and lower miles.
An example: we were considering a used pickup truck to carry what we need and tow more than our (small) current vehicles.
But we needed an extended cab at least to keep stuff out of the weather. I found that I could get a used decade old 15 passenger van for less than a similar age pickup truck with fewer miles and in better shape.
In some cases it makes sense to go with a bigger vehicle and accept lower fuel mileage because of lower cost or higher safety factors.
And I ALWAYS look up to a couple hours away: my current small SUV was $4000 cheaper 2 hours away than locally, the car before that was $3000 cheaper and lower miles an hour away than 10 minutes away.
Jonathan
Anonymous@10:39 recommended 4Runners. We had a 2003 4Runner V-6 we bought used . That year and some subsequent years had a problem with the head gasket where coolant would get into the cylinders when cold. The problem didn't appear until we had the car for a few months. It cost us near $3000 to repair. Toyota never formally acknowledged the issue though they tacitly recognized it when they changed the design of the head gasket. It was otherwise a good vehicle.
Any Honda or Toyota. my wife and I have a2015 volvo xc70 which we really like... volvos can be expensive to repair, though. though they are very reliable.
beware the "processing fee". they lowball the price then tack on a 750-1500 processing fee after the deal is done. some folks don't notice until they get home, lol.
oh yeah, what on a wing said. divide the miles driven per year by the payments per year. you can fix it several times for what a new/er car will cost, insurance is cheaper especially if you drop the collision. they won't pay as much as the premium if you wreck it. save up for a replacement. besides nearly all the new cars are junk, made to last a couple years. cvt trannies, head gaskets, turbos all blow out way too soon. do your research. lexus/accura/merc small suvs are well made and many owners bail too soon thinking it'll cost a fortune to fix. oh, and TAXES!!!!!!!
Fix your current car. You can pay for a lot of repairs with $20K.
Come down to the central texas area and look at used cars that dont have service records north of dallas. There are options.
If you want to travel, southern AZ is a another good place to shop. No rust issues. Just get an inspection before buying.
*always check Vins to ensure not a flood damaged vehicle.
Do not get a Kia or Hyundai or genesis if buying used. Their 10 year, 100k warranty is actual service lifetime of the car and then likely need many warranty repairs.
The 4.7l sequoias are one of the best values at the moment, but very low gas mileage. Otherwise, any 2015 or older toyota or Lexus is worth considering, with the caveat of avoiding cvt trannies if at all possible.
Carmax is another place to consider if buying the add on warranties that give you peace of mind knowing total cost of ownership during the warranty period.
Good luck!
This is true. Repairing older vehicles is restoring their value, not a loss.
If you're in the Salt belt, where frame and body are rusting away in 15 years, it's a different equation, but Peter isnt.
I looked at the maverick a couple months ago. First, they're 30k+ out the door. The MSRP has nothing to do with what the dealer will sell it for after they tack on their packages, I tried to negotiate, but 30 was about all I was able to get to. I passed. Secondly, it's not a truck, it's a minivan shaped like a truck. Unibody construction and front wheel drive. I'd just get a used minivan if it was me, way more utility, more comfortable, and cheap when they're used. I'd would be looking at an old Prius if it was me, you can get them for under 10k and replacement for the batteries is under 2k.
Google True Delta. Lots and lots of info on used cars.
Last year, I decided to replace my 2005 Ford Focus, due to the repair costs. It wasn't a borderline decision for me. It sounds as if you're closer to being on the edge here, re. the financials, and if the engine / tranny / body are all in good shape, suspension work doesn't seem like such a bad decision.
That said, I decided on Subaru. I spent a fair amount of time pondering the question and looking at options. What I got was a 2011 Outback, with 200K miles, a little body damage, and a cracked windshield - for $5k. I'd've preferred a newer Forester, but that wasn't in my budget. If you think a Subie might work for you, check out MrSubaru on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@MrSubaru1387/videos - he gives it straight on what to know. I generally dislike automatic trannies, but the Subie CVT has been great for driving.
- jed
I bought my current car from a local ministry that provides car repairs and vehicles to those in financial stress. They get cars donated to them. Some are used to provide transportation to those who need it. The nicer vehicles are gone through, then sold to help finance the ministry. I don't know if there is a ministry like that in your area, but it might be worth a look
Fix your current car. Repairs cheaper than car payments.
Avoid Rav4 if you have a bad back. The seats are murder on long drives. Loved my toyotas- Corolla and minivan.
Honestly, as others commented on the previous post what's going on with the front end. I had to do the front end control arms on my 15 Forester and that was only 1500 bucks. The 15 Forester is a miserable vehicle, CD player, Horn, have died. Piss poor lights. Vanity mirror fell out on the driver side. Even the F on the name badge on the back fell off. It litterally F'ed off! Goes though 2 cups of oil every 500 miles and its got 163K on it. But I got it at 43K and I've used it for more of truck things than half the pavement princesses around me. But it still starts and stops. Many people have less issues than I have had but depending on your needs you probally can have one of those with around 100K (I drive 55 miles one way to work) that may be suitable. I also picked up a 23 Tacoma with the 3.5 V6 that had 8200 miles on it. Best vehicle I've ever been in and drove even accounting for 20 plus years of vehicle advancing tech. There are some of those available but the price point is 40k. If you want older you can find Tacomas in the last 10 years between 20 and 30K. I'd take that far in advance of a front wheel drive pick up that can't tow anything and is really only designed to drive around city streets as a very light duty delivery truck.
See https://www.carpro.com/ for more ideas. He recommends leasing for people looking for cars under ten grand. Some dealers will deliver to your area. DW
Instead of trading it in, research the private sale value of the current car, decide what you’d accept for it, and take it to a local auction that has an auto night, where dealers look for something they can sell to some schmo for a few dollars more - you’ll get more than trade-in, and if it doesn’t sell for your minimum, they usually only charge a little to run it through
Check out Purple Wave auctions online. I bought my last car there. It belonged to a police department but was not a patrol vehicle. It was a civilian (normal) Ford Taurus that had been an administrative vehicle for the detective division. I bought it two years ago for $1,250. It only had 130,000 miles. It needed the fuel pump replaced. Solid car. Doesn't burn any oil. With the fuel pump replacement and a couple of routine maintenance items done, the total was under $2,000. Lots of government vehicles available on Purple Wave. GovDeals (as mentioned above) is also another online auction worth looking at.
I agree on the Ridgeline! Amazing mileage in the Eco mode. Handles great and tows our 2600 pound trailer with ease.
There was a assisted living facility not too far, as residents lost their driving license they would sell the cars for them. Most were pretty banged up, friend bought one that had been scraped full length of the driver side, dents and dings everywhere. When she bought it, 13 years old less than 50 thousand miles, and got it for just over a grand. Now has over 200,000 miles, still runs great but did have to replace all the rubber,, hoses etc.
My family has had good luck with Hyundai. We’ve owned four over the last 18 years and they’ve been good, reliable cars at a lower price point than equivalent Toyota or Honda models. We still own two of them - my wife’s 2021 model Elantra and my 2012 Elantra Touring (small station wagon) with 160+ thousand miles and still going strong - I plan to keep it as long as I can.
I’ve heard good things about their Tucson crossover SUV but can’t offer firsthand data on that. FWIW, I believe Kia and Hyundai are sister companies.
There are great cars under $10K, but you have to look at old ones. I'd have no problem buying a Toyota or Honda, ideally with manual transmission, as old as 25 years if it isn't rusty and has been well maintained. Last year my wife bought a 2011 Honda CRV with 155K miles on it for $7500 and other than normal maintenance it has needed nothing. Parts are easy to find and inexpensive. A private seller (perhaps an estate sale) who bought the car new is the perfect situation. They are out there. Perhaps readers who aren't too far away from you could help you find one. I'd like to help but am 2000 miles away.
A used Toyota Camry Hybrid or Avalon Hybrid. Great fuel efficiency and they perform better than you'd expect. Plenty of space. Dead reliable.
It is the least expensive car you'll have. Fix it and keep on going. You answered your own question -- there's nothing good out there under $10k. And the "value" of a car is not just what Edmunds says it's "worth," it's worth alot to you as working, reliable transportation. Look for parts at a reputable parts yard; you can find a wreck with a good front end. I drive two 2013 VW's, a '99 pickup and our "new' car (wife's) is a 2019 Suburban, just purchased this summer with only 45,000 miles. I've "already" replaced the alternator and battery, now working on brakes. But Lord willing, we'll drive it until we die (I'm 70...)
This Spring I lent my 19 year old Civic to a friend that was in a similar situation. She a Chevy Traverse that needed $8k worth of work. She bought a beater Nissan to drive while she saved up to have the Chevy fixed. The beater Nissan failed a month later.
After three weeks she begged me to sell her my Honda. I said yes, but with the condition I could get a replacement vanilla sedan with manual transmission.
Since 2016 Honda went to CVT transmissions that have a bad reputation and their base line engine is a 1.5 turbo that has severe oil dilution problems. I’ve been a loyal Honda owner my whole life and felt betrayed.
My wife found a 2015 Civic (120k miles)languishing on a used car lot in Boise for $10k. It had been there long enough for all four tires to be low and squirrels had made a nest in the hood insulation. Snapped it up and have driven it three times to California this summer to visit my aging mom. Those are 1500 mile drives without a hiccup and gives me 39.6 MPG.
A Civic in the 2008-2015 range will be anything from $8,000-15,000. These are well known for going over 300k miles.
I'm too lazy to look through the threads, but I have to wonder what in the world you're doing to generate recurring $3k expenses for front end work. I've had half a dozen Toyotas go over 200k with nothing but tires and oil changes. I'd shop mechanics. Every time I've taken my car to a Firestone dealer for tires, I get a litany of things to fix. They always want to do my back brakes for like $800. What a joke. $60 in parts and an hours labor.
That said, there are good ideas on this thread. I'd fix the car and when you go on trips, get a rental to save wear and tear on your ride. If you want to get a trade up, get a Toyota with under 100k on the clock. Age really doesn't matter. Best deals I've seen are the ones where Pops shouldn't be driving and they cut his Lexus ES350 loose. Sure, it's 10 years old, but it has 80k on the clock and it's nearly new. I've seen a handful around here at the $12k mark with 100k or so. Still a decent deal.
Me? I'm idly looking to add a hoopty to the fleet. I see all sorts of decent deals, but my situation is different. All the vidyas I see on cars show that a meltdown is coming. May make sense to fix the hoopty and wait. Some of the cars I've been watching have been on the market for months.
I took a quick look (using Cars.com) at used Nissan Frontier SV Crew Cab pickups (2022 and newer) in the Amarillo area. It appears that there are some vehicles available that would satisfy your criteria. They feature a normally aspirated (no turbo), 310HP V6, with body on frame construction. I have a 2024 Frontier SV and just returned to North Texas from a 5,500 mile road trip to the Left Coast. Truck ran great, got better than advertised highway mileage, and was very comfortable, the latter being important to this 80+ yo geezer with a bad back and a propensity for sciatica attacks.
Or, if you can fix for 3K, and it will last you a couple of more years, it gives you time to save enough for a 10K car, which with time to look for, is possible.
Agreed that a Toyota Matrix would be great if one can be found in good condition. A Pontiac Vibe is substantially the same car though I'm not sure about getting one serviced.
I would avoid the 2014 Honda CRV which has a known issue with the variable valve timing controller. There are various hacks for this problem, which involves a weak spring in the VTC. Not a terribly difficult fix if you are handy and have tools, but a PITA and an expense if you are missing either.
I had a Pontiac Vibe for many years and ran it to death. The main issue was it wasn't very big.
Unfortunately it was last made in 2010 so they are all getting old at this point.
Jonathan
The CX-5 would be a good choice if you can get in and out of it in your state of disrepair. CX-5's go for about the low 30's new. Low 20's used. My daughter has a 2021 model she purchased in DC and currently driving it in CA. It doesn't have that many miles (22k) but nothing has gone wrong. CX-5's represent 50% of Mazda sales (150k a year) so there should be used one out there. First though is to find a good Mazda mechanic and get the prospective vehicle inspected. Walk from any deal that won't let you do this.
On a separate note the vehicle industry is imploding. The used car financing default rate is skyrocketing. The shutdown isn't helping and expect used car prices to start collapsing. Try your local bank loan officer and ask if they have any used repos worth looking at. He may let you have one for the loan payoff amount. Start with your local bank and go from there. Note the loan officer is working to unload the bad debt inventory at no cost to the bank, if they can.
How occasional is 'occasional'? And what about the rest of the time? Might you consider ebikes and the occasional car hire?
We recently went through this, did a good bit of new car research and settled on a Mazda 3. Around $24k locally, 35mpg, real transmission not that rubberband nonsense that a lot of low-end cars are going to (manual is avalable too), front wheel drive cause it snows here, and one of the more long-haul comfortable small cars I've driven. It IS a little low to get in and out of, and not a lot of extra cargo space, but an added hitch and a small trailer gives you more utility than the little ford truck.
If your willing to overlook cosmetic issues you can sometimes find hail damaged cars at insurance auctions in Texas. It doesnt take many minor dents to total a car these days. If you could find a good redneck mechanic you could probably pay them in ammo... My brother could fix stuff the dealerships couldnt even figure out, he just didn't fit in.
We live in East Tennessee and just bought a 2021 Soul for around $16k, cash, after saving for some time to do that. It's been a delightful little car. Would recommend the S trim line or above to get the motorized seat adjustment
Mine is a 2011 with 180 k, starting to show it's age but so far, so good.
Bought a virtually new Maverick almost a year ago. You are correct that it's not really a 'truck,' but it does do all the truck-y things I need it to do. I like the ride, visibility, handling, and mine is a hybrid and I really like the 40 mpg I get on extended local driving (only 32 mpg for interstate speeds or local un-warmed-up.)
Just about any toyota or an early 2000s Jeep Cherokee XJ or something else with the 4.0 inline six motor. The mileage will be getting up there on most of them but they are known to last a long time. It might be a little pricey to find a lower mileage one but they should still be out there for no more than $10k. Chevys and GMs with the 4.3 motor should be similarly good to go as well. Those Buicks with the 3800 motor also last a long time. Cummins diesels will run forever if you don't do anything too crazy with them. For example my dad's truck had 400k miles when he bought it, he has put 200k more on it and the guy he bought it from has been asking if he could buy it back... A lot of people would recommend newer stuff but it seems like the big three forgot how to make good motors starting in the 2000s, the newer motors often make more power and get good gas mileage but often seem to have design flaws or they rely on higher rpms to make power so I can't image they'd last as long as the relatively overbuilt stuff they made prior. But the problem those 90s-early 2000s cars Do have is that the paint from the factory was shit and many have rusted or been removed from out market in that cash-for-clunkers bullshit.
What problems? I had one with no trouble a couple of years back but I have heard of other people having issues that that cylinder shutdown economy mode.
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