Of apples, cider, and high spirits

When I first came to the United States in the mid-1990's, I was puzzled to find that what Americans called "apple cider" had nothing to do with what I knew by that name.  It was non-alcoholic apple juice, nothing more.  The mismatch between product and name continued to puzzle me, until I read this article.

Today, the United Kingdom and United States are the biggest producers of cider in the world. Yet, at some point in the last few hundred years, the words “apple cider” have evolved to mean different things in these two nations.

In the American state of New Hampshire, the state beverage of apple cider is like unfiltered apple juice. Usually, mulled spices are added, turning it into a spiced, piping hot drink. But in the famed cider-growing region of Britain’s West Country, cider is a fermented, alcoholic beverage. Look further across Europe and you’ll find that America’s version of apple cider is the outlier—cidre in France and sidra in Spain are both akin to British hard cider, rather than the American mulled beverage. So, how did Americans end up with such a unique form of apple cider?

In the American colonial era, there was only one form of apple cider: cyder. This type of beverage, a fermented product usually between 4-6% ABV, was brought onto the continent by colonists in the 17th century. Unlike barley and grapes, apples grew in New England with ease. New England residents in the 18th century consumed cider generously: an estimated 15 to 54 gallons per year.

Cyder was the most commonly produced drink in colonial America—the beverage of choice for most Americans at a time when imbibing water was questionable.

. . .

Then, on January 17, 1920, Prohibition came into effect, halting the production, importation, and sale of alcohol ... Overzealous temperance supporters and FBI agents razed many apple orchards to the ground, destroying heirloom apple varieties that had grown since colonial times. The orchards that survived could only produce so many of the high-tannin, bitter apples usually grown for cider. Farmers began primarily cultivating sweeter apples for cooking and eating to ensure the survival of their farms.

Post-Prohibition, the cider industry never recovered, but it did evolve. Although Prohibitionists deemed fermented cider “the devil’s brew,” writes cider chronicler Ben Watson, “fresh apple juice was being recognized and marketed as a healthful drink.” This led to the development of “sweet cider”—a non-alcoholic beverage with connotations of a simple life on the farm.

Even as American apple cider was developed, much of the machinery and processes to create it remained the same. Both sweet and hard cider-makers mill and press apples to extract juice. The key difference between sweet American apple cider and hard cider comes down to fermentation and type of apples. Hard cider is fermented and often includes astringent, tannin-rich apples to create interesting, full-bodied, dry ciders. The hot, mulled beverage Americans know and love is made from culinary apples, such as Jonagold, Honeycrisp, and Gala. The final product for both sweet and hard ciders is usually pasteurized or UV-sterilized.

. . .

Back in Britain, there was no Prohibition. Cider production waxed and waned, but never ceased. Cider’s popularity has increased there as well, moving from the West Country all throughout the United Kingdom. These days, there are countless ciders in production across the country. Specialty bars, such as The Stable, specialize in cider—stocking over 100 varieties, including their own blend of mulled cider. But as of yet, they don’t have sweet, booze-free American apple cider.

There's more at the link.

Those of you who've visited England, and had the opportunity to sample some real Devonshire scrumpy (not the wimpy brewery-produced legal stuff, but the real thing, usually made by farmers' wives in their kitchens) will know just how potent "proper" cider can get.  As one recipe puts it, "One glass and the world seems a better place, two glasses and you probably do not remember."  That's a pretty fair summary, IMHO!

I grew up on "real" cider, alcohol and all.  I still enjoy it, and I'm very pleased to see that it's becoming more widely available in the USA.  However, it's still all legal and regulated over here.  I wonder if I could interest people in my part of the world in producing a North Texas version of scrumpy?  Hmmm . . .  Oh, yes - one important reminder.  This is Texas, I know, but even so, hold the chilis!




Peter