Wednesday, May 2, 2012

'Meat Glue' - dishonesty in the restaurant trade


I was angered (and not a little disgusted) to read about a trick that's apparently not uncommon in the restaurant and catering industry.  KABC-TV in Los Angeles reports:

If you were disturbed to hear about "pink slime" in your burger, you'll want to know about "meat glue", because a fat, rare-cooked filet mignon may not be what it seems.

Meat glue is a powder officially known as transglutaminase. Originally, the natural enzyme was harvested from animal blood. Now it's primarily produced through the fermentation of bacteria. Added to meat, it forms a nearly invisible and permanent bond to any other meat you stick it to.

Chef Staffan Terje of Perbacco Restaurant in San Francisco takes food seriously. He doesn't use meat glue in his restaurant, but like many chefs, he knows how it works and he agreed to show KGO-TV, KABC-TV's sister station in San Francisco.

Terje took powder and dusted it liberally over the meat pieces. The coated stew meat then went into a circular tin to give it a nice, round filet mignon shape. He was also able to make a New York strip out of thin cuts of round steak. Adding water makes a soupy glaze, and an easier way to coat the meat.

The final steps were to seal the meat in a vacuum bag, adding some pressure to the bond, and then it was off to the fridge to set overnight.

Twenty-four hours later, the humble $4-a-pound stew meat now looks like a $25-a-pound prime filet.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration lists transglutaminase as "generally recognized as safe." It's OK to eat cooked meat that's been glued.

But here's the problem: the outside of a piece of meat comes in contact with a lot of bacteria making its way from slaughterhouse to table. Usually cooking a steak on the outside will kill all that off. The center of a single cut of steak is sterile, that's why you can eat it rare. But glued pieces of meat could contain bacteria like E. coli on the inside.

"Say somebody wants that filet steak rare, the center temperature is not going to reach the temperature that will actually kill the bacteria," Terje said. "And that's also a really, really happy environment for things that can kill you."

There's more at the link. I'd never heard of this stuff before, but it's apparently well-known.  There are many video reports about it on YouTube, if you're interested.

What I want to know is, why isn't it illegal for restaurants to sell you something labeled as a prime meat product such as filet mignon (and priced accordingly) when, in fact, it's nothing but recycled scraps?  I'd never willingly pay for such meat if I knew what it was.  Why should I have to worry about being conned when I eat out?  Who allowed this fraud to proceed in the first place?

So much for 'truth in advertising' . . .





Peter

2 comments:

Rich said...

The news report is misleading.

The reporter is saying that low-price high-volume places glue together filet scraps to make filets.

Meanwhile, the chef is demonstrating how to fake a filet from stew meat.

That is not the same thing.

If you were served stew meat in the shape of a filet, it would still be tough compared to a filet. You'd send it back.

Are people faking filet - I'm sure someone is, but that's NOT the actual allegation in the story.

Now, the health issue is important. I like my steaks medium rare, and would not chose to order a steak make of cut-up pieces that way.

August said...

I think the media may just be wrong on this one. Transglutaminase is used by some of the molecular gastronomy chefs to help them create some of their dishes. This is really high end stuff and it isn't being used to pass off cheap ingredients as more expensive ones but to create a novel texture/shape.
While it may be possible to use this in the way the news report alleges, it would be much more possible to pull it off with some low rent item, like chicken fried steak. Kitchen staff just don't have the time to make the thing look perfect, so it would either have to be obviously artificial- shaped into a loaf for instance, or sufficiently hidden with layers of breading or something. Your local steak place just can't use this in the way alleged, but your local school cafeteria can and probably does.