Friday, July 14, 2023

Emergency preparations: Disposing of your trash

 

Following our several articles about emergency preparations last month:


Emergency preparations: Hygiene and sanitation

An expensive lesson...


I've had ongoing conversations with several readers about the wider implications of such situations.  The other day we were talking about how the disposal of trash (anything from normal "dry" waste products, through spoiled food and liquids, to human waste) can affect our health, hygiene and other preparations such as water purification, etc.  I thought it might be worthwhile to address the issue in a blog article, for wider circulation.  It's a big topic, so obviously we won't do more than scratch the surface of it here.  There's lots more information available on the Internet if you look for it.

Trash disposal is one of the things to which most people pay little attention.  We've become so accustomed to bagging our waste, tossing the bags into an outdoor bin, and wheeling it to the roadside once a week for collection by the waste disposal company, that we don't give it a second thought.  However, what if our garbage was not collected?  The consequences are many, and very unpleasant.

  • The weight and volume of trash will build up quite rapidly.  It's not unusual for most families to fill a 65-95 gallon trash container every week, and many fill two of them.  If we continued to generate waste in those quantities without disposing of it, pretty soon we'd have a pile of trash bags filling up our front or back yard.
  • Trash doesn't take long to start to smell bad.  In the heat of high summer, it can be only a matter of hours;  in the depths of a freezing winter, it won't be so bad - until summer comes around and warms up the heap of garbage.
  • Trash attracts rodents, insects and other undesirable critters.  (Ever seen what a mess raccoons and possums can make of a particularly ripe-smelling trash container?  It has to be seen to be believed!)  Those critters bring with them animal waste, diseases and other contaminants, directly threatening the health of your family.
  • Your neighbors will be in similar straits without trash collection, of course.  Trouble is, with everyone's garbage accumulating in heaps, your entire street - your entire neighborhood - is going to start smelling distinctly overripe.  It's a serious health hazard.  It won't help much if you find a way to cart your garbage off-site, if everyone else's garbage near you will still present a risk.  (Also, in a long-duration emergency, you probably won't have enough fuel to waste it on car or pickup truck "trash runs".)
  • Human waste is a particular problem.  If the power goes out for an extended period, odds are that within two to three days the water and sewage systems will stop working as they should.  They may limp along under gravity for a while, if you're lucky enough to live high up so that waste can drain away from your property, but that won't do much for those living lower down;  and without pumps, the sewage in the system can't be moved to a processing plant.  It's going to lie there, build up, and stink to high heaven, as well as present a very serious disease hazard and pollution threat to any local streams or bodies of water.

There are several ways to slow down the buildup of trash produced by your household, and you can teach your neighbors to do the same things.  That'll help everyone cope in the short to medium term.  Long term, of course, there's no easy solution except to burn waste or bury it as deep as possible - and if you can't move it to a convenient and safe burial site, it'll rapidly overflow holes you dig in your back yard.  That's a worst-case scenario in anyone's language.  Still, there are things you can do to minimize the dangers.

  1. Sort your waste into categories.  Dry waste includes paper, cardboard and wood items, as well as dry fallen leaves.  All of them can be burned (observing suitable safety precautions, of course).  This reduces them to ash instead of needing a lot of space to accommodate their bulk;  and the ash can be spread out as fertilizer, or dumped into a garbage bag for further disposal (after it's cooled down!).  You have local regulations forbidding trash fires?  Friend, in an emergency situation I don't think officials are going to be able to enforce those regulations.  If you happen to have something you can use as a "burn barrel" (say, a steel 55-gallon fuel barrel with the top cut off and ventilation holes cut in the lower third of the sides), it's worth keeping it on hand for that sort of use.  Wet waste includes leftover foodstuffs, dry waste that's been dampened and can't dry out quickly, lubrication oils and fuels (which should be segregated, of course, because they're a major pollution hazard), and so on.  These will need more secure containers.  Also, plastics are a category on their own.  They usually can't be burned without creating hazardous waste that's a threat in itself, during or after the burn.
  2. Bag as much waste as possible.  Bags stop your trash blowing around in the wind, and keep it together for easier storage and disposal.  This starts with simple waste paper bins.  You can line them with plastic shopping bags, or buy bin liners very cheaply (stash them with your emergency supplies).  Kitchen trash bin liners (usually 13-gallon size) are also very useful, and larger garbage bin liners and contractor bags are ubiquitous.  Fill up a smaller bag, tie it off, and drop it into a larger bag, and go on doing that until the big bag is full:  then tie it off and move it to a disposal point.  The bags contain some of the odors generated by the trash inside, and prevent it from getting loose and being blown all over the place.  They're cheap enough that I keep several hundred of them, of different sizes, in my emergency supplies.
  3. Heavy-duty trash bags are worth their weight in gold in an emergency.  The cheaper variety are fine when you're able to dispose of them quickly after use;  but their thin plastic means they stretch and tear easily, spilling their contents, and can be easily penetrated by rodents attracted by what's inside.  During my years in the Third World, I found that heavy-duty 3-4 mil trash bags were vastly superior to thinner ones.  We used to take smaller, regular-thickness trash bags, fill and tie them, then put them into the bigger, heavier bags, and collect those for disposal when convenient.  I use these ones (specifically the 35-pack 4 mil 60 gallon bags;  the other options are 3 mil bags, not as strong).  They can also be used to make a rainproof poncho, groundsheet, or emergency shelter, or serve as weatherproof covers for your gear and supplies, particularly if you use duct tape to secure them.  Invaluable!  When choosing which bags to buy, check their thickness in mils.  Some claim to be "extra tough" or "extra thick", but don't specify how thick.  I don't trust claims like that.  Also, be wary of super-large bags, because if they get too heavy and bulky for easy handling, you've made a new problem for yourself.  Choose a size you can carry when they're full.  Your age and physical condition are important factors in determining that.
  4. Human waste is a major problem.  If one has the budget (and the space), one can keep a composting toilet handy for times when the sewer system stops working.  However, most of us can't afford that.  One can get toilet seats to fit on 5 gallon buckets, or adapt commodes for invalids to serve the whole family;  and I suppose men can "water the garden" as they have done for centuries.  Ladies will find that more difficult, of course.  If possible, I suggest separating liquid from solid human waste.  The former can be thrown out some distance from your dwelling (and any water sources), to soak into the earth.  The latter should be buried if you have space to do so, but you can't do that for very long in a small area without making your front and back yard into smelly, very unpleasant minefields.  It can also be bagged and set aside for disposal later.  (Consider smaller heavy-duty trash bags like these ones;  again, I have some set aside in my stash.  They contain the mess and the smell of human waste much better than flimsier, thinner bags.)  If necessary (and if you can do so far enough from your home that the smell and the flies won't bother you), you can spread it out and dry it in the sun to make disposal easier.  Burning is a possible method of disposal (as US troops did in Vietnam), but the smoke stinks and has health hazards of its own, and requires additional fuel that might be in short supply.
  5. Observe good hygiene and sanitation practices when handling trash.  Wear protective clothing (including gloves) when handling it, wash your hands after doing so, and avoid getting it on your body and clothes if at all possible.  If the smell is particularly bad, or if the risk of infection is great (such as when handling human waste), take extra care.  Keep bleach on hand to sanitize surfaces.  (That's another advantage of pool shock, which you may have on hand to purify water;  a little of it can make up many gallons of liquid bleach, enough to serve as a household sanitizer for months.)
  6. Don't forget twine, or cable ties, or some other method of securing the necks of your trash bags.  Sure, many come with draw strings or tie flaps, but those aren't particularly strong, and can't handle a lot of bulk and/or weight.  Heavier-duty bags often don't have them.  Fill your bags two-thirds to three-quarters full, leaving a "neck" you can twist to close them, then tie off the neck with twine or a cable tie.  That'll be much more secure, and give you a handle to lift the bag as well.  Duct tape is another very useful tool for the purpose.
  7. As your trash accumulates, you'll need to secure it against varmints and roving animals.  Something like an open dumpster isn't good enough:  mice, rats, raccoons, possums, etc. will get in through the open top, and they'll tear your trash bags to shreds, releasing everything inside.  I suggest either getting hold of multiple garbage cans, of the kind distributed by waste disposal companies (in an emergency, look for unclaimed containers in or near abandoned buildings), or building an enclosure out of wood and wire netting.  Neither option is foolproof, but they'll be better than nothing.  If you have bears in your neck of the woods, they're likely to become a serious problem as more and more trash is left lying around.  It's like a banqueting table for them - an open invitation.  Expect difficulties with such animals, some of which may become actively dangerous.
  8. Eventually, you'll have to find a way to dispose of larger volumes of trash as it accumulates.  Those living in apartments or crowded big cities are likely to find this much more difficult than those in smaller towns or rural settings.  Burial is a possibility, although it's a lot of hard work (and one must be sure that pollution won't seep out of the garbage burial site and affect local water sources).  A "trash run" (if fuel and vehicles are available) to a garbage dump site is very desirable, but may not be feasible for one person or family alone.  It might be worth arranging a cooperative trash disposal effort every so often.  Be very cautious about simply dumping your trash on what may look like an open, unused piece of ground.  The owner of that land may not take kindly to what the British call "fly-tipping";  and, if he sees you doing so, he may make his displeasure known ballistically.  Not a good idea.

Trash will become an ever-increasing problem in a medium- to long-term emergency.  It's worth thinking about it long before that happens, and making a plan to deal with it "up front" so that you're ready when you need to be.  Also, if things go pear-shaped, approach your neighbors as quickly as possible and advise them to think about the problem as well.  If you all work together, you can minimize the problem and its dangers for everybody.  If most of those around you aren't prepared, and let the mess get worse in a hurry, it's as much a health risk to you as it is to them.

For more on waste handling and disposal in an emergency, see this article.  It covers areas I haven't addressed above.

Peter


21 comments:

Dan said...

If things go south to where trash collection becomes an issue it will be a self solving problem. All that trash we create comes from all the stuff we buy at stores. When the ballon goes up there won't be any stuff to buy at the stores and the volume of trash created will drop precipitously. It's will be a problem but not near as big a problem as other issues will be.

Michael said...

Dan partly correct, some waste will stop being purchased due to lack of it available.

But a look at 3rd world countries it's pretty clear that lack of DEALING with existing waste is a real problem. That rainbow shimmering water is a real health threat.

You have to survive current waste issues before dealing with longer term issues. And there is going to be A LOT OF IT if you observe just what happens when garbage workers go on strike for a week or so.

And filth isn't a recent issue as poorly handled human waste and downstream contamination has been the direct source of many disease outbreaks.

Disease has always been even today the #1 killer of humans. Mr. Crapper has done more with the invention of the water toilet system than all the antibiotics on earth. Handwashing and sanitation is critical.

Proper sited pit outhouses as to protect water supplies is important. A well-done burn barrel burns hot and cleanly, a massive improvement over bag it and hope the rodents don't get into it. Most burn barrels fail due to overloading so incomplete combustion, lack of rainwater drainage so they stay wet, burn poorly and rust quickly.

All burn barrels should have rainwater protection as draining rainwater will carry your ashes pollution into other areas.

Human waste if handled correctly is a good fertilizer, hot composting using assigned tools and such like Humanmanure book describes has been a proven safe system. Deep burial cold composting . often known as the pit outhouse works well enough if properly sited, fly and rodent controls work.

Organic materials in a hot compost pile becomes fertilizer.

It would seem a bad joke to have all that battle rattle, mountain house cans and such to die from poopy hands, eh?

Anonymous said...

Trash will still be a problem due to ongoing looting and savaging for supplies

Paul, Dammit! said...

We used to chain a pair of empty drums to the stern of my ship and burn everything that wasn't food, metal or human waste (which went through the ship's MSD for waste). Plastic once caught on fire, while toxic, burns readily and hot, and does a good job reducing everything else around it. We could take 15 drums of solid waste and reduce it to a half barrel of plastic slag and ash, leave it to burn down overnight, and dump it on deck the next morning, and let the wind scatter the ash. The plastic slag could be thrown in a trash bag and so we only had to dispose of the slag about once every 6 months.
The toxic plume from this is significant. In a pinch, best to do this when the wind is right, and far from the house.

Wild Bill Hiccup said...

People tend to just toss stuff in the trash can because size and amount is not an issue to the weekly pickup people. Volume can be reduced a lot by compacting it, or "packaging" trash - an empty jar or can, for example, can be filled with smaller trash items, like tissues, coffee filters, paper towels, etc. to reduce overall volume. Boxes can be broken down and flattened, things like foam clamshell takeout food packaging, egg cartons, etc. can be cut in half to reduce size and "nested" together to reduce trash volume.

I make a dump run monthly because by compacting and nesting trash it takes us 9-11 days to fill a 13 gallon kitchen trash bag, 2 full bags fit in a 45 gallon big trash can, so when the 3rd bag is full they all go to the dump along with flattened cardboard for recycling. Recycling won't continue when SHTF, but cardboard and paper are easily burnable or usable in some gardening applications.

Duke of URL VFM#391 said...

I don't see anything about composting organic waste and using it to fertilize food-gardens.

Peter said...

@Duke of URL: That can work, provided the waste isn't contaminated by disease (e.g. cholera, dysentery, e. coli bacteria, etc.) If it is, you've just fertilized an infection source, not a garden.

Anonymous said...

Our town dump is a recycling center, so we are already separating the rubbish. The burn barrel works, if used properly as Micheal and Paul,Dammit noted above. Cardboard and paper burns, or can be used in the garden as part of the compost cycle. Vegetable scraps are composted. Meat scraps are thrown into the woods, far from the house (we’re rural). We generally have one 30 gallon bag of rubbish each month, plus the paper trash and milk jugs and tin cans. We don’t use the burn barrel as much as we should, but we could if necessary.
Southern NH

Eaton Rapids Joe said...

"Moldering privies" are an option in some climates. https://www.southlandorganics.com/blogs/case-studies/17909872-case-study-the-appalachian-trail-minimizing-moldering


A moldering privy differs from a composting toilet in that it does not rely on heat to inactivate disease organisms. It relies on the fact that diseases tend to be host specific. Diseases that infect humans do not infect red-worms and nightcrawlers.

Moldering toilets can be significantly easier to manage than composting in cooler and wetter climates.

Your mileage WILL vary.

Anonymous said...

Definitely a potential problem - look up pictures of trash strikes for graphic details!
A couple of ways to help:
- if you're semi rural or rural, you can burn trash at night to be less visible.
- anyone with a septic system will be glad to have it in times like this.
- when nothing, or little, is coming in, sorting and reuse becomes important. It has the nice side effect of reducing trash volume. (Actually, further reducing, since the lack of incoming packaging will have already reduced it.
JH

Sherm said...

My wife put away a supply of WAG bags for emergency use, hopefully at a much lower price than they go for today. Stacked in a utility closet the pile is almost five feet high. By the time we get through those, if nothing is done to alleviate the cause, people will be feeding on the carcasses of their neighbors and regular waste will be a background problem.

JustPeachy said...

We've put a surprising amount of thought into this problem over the years, and our family of 5 usually fills no more than half of our allotted city-issued trash can each week. *AND* it doesn't smell or breed flies (anymore)(the trashcan maggots used to drive me nuts).

Here's how we do it:

Cook at home, and shop the local secondhand market. This eliminates most packaging waste (buy it gently used, and all the excessive packaging is someone else's disposal problem), and puts you in a better position for everything, in an emergency, in addition to being cheaper. The sheer amount of trash involved in any kind of pre-prepared foods, whether it's takeout or frozen lasagna, is insane. Make it yourself at home and you keep that to a small fraction of the plastic/foil/cardboard trash. AND, when you cook at home, you're much more likely to bulk-buy and keep a backlog of constantly-rotated food supplies *that you actually use* that'll serve you well in a supply-disruption pinch.

If you're buying new, think really hard, before you buy, about the future of this item: how will you dispose of the packaging? Is there an option to buy it with less packaging, or no packaging (like, gently used on FB marketplace)? Do you really need it that bad? When it reaches the end of its useful life, what will you do with it? If/when it breaks, is it repairable? Just asking these questions will save you $$$, time, frustration, and space in your trash can.

Compost everything. If it used to be a plant or an animal, or came from one of those, it's compostable: bones, chicken skin, vegetable peels, eggshells, apple cores, the pet guinea pig that died overnight, cardboard boxes, the rat carcasses from your basement traps, desiccated rice, that unidentifiable object in the back of the fridge, the giblets nobody will eat, the tissue you just blew your nose on... you don't need a fancy compost pile, just a shovel. Bury it. Plant pumpkins/melons/squash next to it. This eliminates 90% of the stink and flies from your trash, and squash plants will go nuts for it. If you have a problem with varmints digging it up, add charcoal with it when you bury. It absorbs the smell or something-- never had a problem with diggers after I started that. To eliminate the other 10% of trash grossness, switch to cloth diapers, and wash your trash-- like literally, just don't throw away a can or a jar or a wrapper without giving it a quick rinse. Now your trash can sit around almost indefinitely without being a hygeine/sanitation problem, if there's some disruption in your trash pickup. If you use paper to wipe up grease... it burns like a torch and makes a great firestarter (provided you have a fire today-- doesn't keep obv.)

Paper burns. It also composts.

All of these things can be done *right now* and will improve your life in the immediate term, not just in an emergency.

Personally, I'd think twice, thrice, nay even four times, about burning or throwing away leaves. That's your soil fertility right there. Burn it, and most of it goes up in smoke. I'll never understand why people take the carbon and minerals their trees have so kindly pumped out of the air and soil, and then bag them up and set them on the roadside. But I happily collect those bags in my truck, and take them home and mulch the garden with them. I mean, that's FREE CARBON MASS you're throwing away. And then you wonder why your soil's so poor... compost that stuff, people. It's a no-strings gift from God and nature and you are throwing it out with the trash. So if you ever see some random lady at your curb, making off with your yard waste bags-- *waves* huge thanks from me, my tomato plants, and all their earthworm buddies. We think you're nuts, but we appreciate the free compost.

James said...

My maternal grandparents who raised seven children during the depression, buried all non burnable trash in pits until I was an adult. Cans had their labels removed and were flattened, along with glass jars and any thing else that fit the category. When a hole was full enough, the rest of the hole was filled with dirt. There was a pattern to the spacing so that old sites were not redug.

Anonymous said...

Army training mission in Central America in the 90s.
Even with military reverse-osmosis water purification systems, everyone got sick at some point and the toilet facilities (mix of "porto-lets" and pit latrines) filled up pretty quick. The porto-lets were sucked out weekly, a luxury not available in SHTF. Navy Corpsman was handing out CIPRO like M&Ms....that solved the sickness part. Plan for sickness and its resultant sanitation challenges. God forbid you have to even think about effects of radiation exposure and radiation sickness. On the longer term, using human waste as fertilizer ~might~ be problematic due to accumulation of heavy metals, but it would take several farming cycles for that to become an issue and in this scenario, there are more pressing problems to deal with.

Skyler the Weird said...

My great grandfather lived in a tar paper shack with no running water and no toilet. They had a well and kept water in a bucket with a ladle in the kitchen. They had an outhouse way out in the back. They had a trash pit past that where they burned all the trash. Food scraps when to the Hogs.

The thing I wonder about is food security as a pile of cans near the house will alert the bad guys you may have a stash. How can you get rid of the empties without alerting neighbors that you have food. Rats and varmints are easily handled, the human variety are more complex.

lynn said...

What a mess ! And burning trash is a very dirty thing with lots of ash. My grandparents burn barrel on their farm did not work very well, even after I put vent holes in the bottom.

Eaton Rapids Joe said...

A question to Anon at 1:18 PM

Will the heavy metals that you envision contaminating the human waste lead and copper?

Curious minds want to know.

Anonymous said...

A few thoughts: I live off grid in Alaska and those in the crew that can walk that far use the outhouse. We have a camode that uses biodegradable bags which are disposed of in an extra deep covered pit. We use pee buckets that can be dumped in the woods. You can add pee to a compost pile for extra nitrogen. Buckets washed regularly! The out house is much less smelly if you cover each use lightly with wood ashes or aglime. We used to use a burn barrel but some family members became sensitive to the smoke so we are sending it to the dump. We could go back if we had to. We have a Burkley filter stored in case of need. I have filters which can also remove organic contaminants as well as virus size particles. Never need to use it so far. Waste food goes to the chickens, some times direct and otherwise cooked with their daily potatoes thicken by a little rice and protein supplement. What the dogs or chickens won’t eat is composted.

tweell said...

Compost what you can, burn what can't be composted, store what's left. Urine makes a fine liquid fertilizer if diluted 7 to 1 or more, it's sterile and can be used in the garden. After scooping out the composting toilet, I dig a small hole in my orchard to put that stuff. I'm not about to use it in the garden, but trees aren't going to be a problem.

JustPeachy said...

@tweel re: urine as fertilizer:

Just a note on that: you *can* overdo it, even with trees. Definitely don't waste this free fertilizer, Definitely dilute it, and also-- don't dump it in the same place every day. Pick a different spot, rotate around the property, try not to hit the same place more than once in, say, 2-3 weeks. Over-fertilizing will make your plants more susceptible to insect damage. That timeframe is different depending on your soil and how much rain you get (arid regions you might have to think about salt buildup), so you gotta keep an eye on the plants, particularly if you need those plants for food, shade, or anything else necessary.

Anonymous said...

Answer to Eaton Rapids Joe: Don't really know, read it somewhere that using human waste as fertilizer is inadvisable over the long term due to concentration of heavy metals in the soil. Crops take up the metals, you eat the crops, put waste as fertilizer, plants take it up (now more concentrated) and cycle continues. I would, guess lead, cadmium, arsenic, and others. Trying to know more, I searched the issue and there are lots of scientific articles out there. One also noted that pathogens like Salmonella can be removed from sludge through gamma radiation treatment, which made me laugh due to my comment about radiation sickness in my original post. Everything is cyclical! LOL